DECAL INFORMATION

 There are two types of water-slide decals: the kind that are made to be fired in a kiln (called ceramic decals) and the kind that we make on our computers and print ourselves.

       I have used the fired-on kind for years.  I have found that for decorative purposes on miniatures, they work just fine unfired. They may be kiln fired to 015 to 017. But for many miniature and craft purposes, they may be applied and sealed. 

TO PRINT YOUR OWN DECALS WITH YOUR COMPUTER

 
Use your own artwork, photos, or drawings. Experiment with the settings on your particular printer. Usually setting it for “Best Mode-Photo Paper-Glossy” or something similar works well. The different settings control the amount of ink that goes onto the paper. Print onto the glossy side of the decal paper.

Immediately after printing, apply several thin coats of Krylon Crystal Clear varnish spray. It is better to use several thin coats, rather than one heavy coat, to keep it from developing any runs. But it must be thoroughly sealed all the way to the edges to keep the ink from washing off or smearing.

Krylon Crystal Clear varnish spray can be purchased at craft and hobby shops, hardware store, Home Depot, Wal-Mart and similar stores.

TO APPLY CERAMIC (Water Slide) DECALS:

Decals can be applied to most any surface. However, they work best on something with a glossy surface. If necessary, apply a glossy finish to your piece and allow to dry before decaling.

 Cut as close as possible to the image on the decal. Using tweezers or your fingers, dip decal in warm water until it releases for the backing. This will take from 10 to 60 seconds, depending on the type of decal. As soon as you feel it loosen for the backing, remove it from the water. Lay it on several sheets of newspaper or paper towel to rest for about a minute.

Then carefully transfer it to your piece, using tweezers or a small soft brush. Nudge it with the brush into the exact position. Use the brush to gently push any air bubbles out from under it. Then gently blot any excess moisture with a soft cloth. Old t-shirt material works well. Allow to dry. Then spray with Krylon crystal clear spray varnish again. I believe Krylon makes a matte spray varnish also, if you want that finish. I find that a spray varnish goes on smoother than a brush-on sealer.

EXTRA TIPS I HAVE LEARNED

If you are working with a very irregular surface, try warming your piece before applying the decal. Then use warm water to soak the decal. Allow at least a minute for the decal to “rest” before trying to apply.

If you find the decal doesn’t slide easily, hold it back in the water for a second or two. Don’t let it stay in the water long enough for it to float off the backing and come to the top. It will wash all  the adhesive from it. If it should happen, and the decal doesn’t adhere well, put a drop of white craft glue on the back of the decal. Apply as usual.

For those who do lots of decals, work with irregular surfaces or just want the best application possible, I highly recommend Badger brand decal softener and Badger decal set. Testors brand also makes a similar product. Sometimes these can be found locally at craft or model train shops. The best place to order them online is Micro-Mark. They also sell excellent decal paper for your ink jet printer, in case you want to try your hand at creating your own. You will find a link to their website on my links page.

       If you decide to use decal softener, follow directions closely. Apply with a soft brush and allow to dry thoroughly. Repeat if necessary. If you touch the decal while it is wet, it could damage the decal.  

QUESTIONS?  Email me!